Glossary

Alencon (al-ON-son)

Probably the most popular of wedding laces, alencon lace has a background of flowers and swags that are re-embroidered along the edges with cording. This lace may be pre-beaded or beaded after it is sewn on the dress.

Battenburg

This type of lace is made by stitching a strip of linen fabric into a pattern of loops, then connecting them with thread. Besides bridal gowns, battenburg is often found on table and bed linens.

Chantilly (shan-TILL-ee)

Flowers and ribbons on a plain net background define chantilly lace. These details are usually edged with fine cording.

Charmeuse (SHAR-moose)

A lightweight version of satin with a softer and more clingy look. Charmeuse is a common finish with silk or rayon and has less body than traditional silk finishes.

Chiffon (SHI-fon)

A transparent, lightweight fabric finish, chiffon may be made from just about any fabric. It is often layered and has an unusual luster.

Damask (DAM-ask)

The hallmark of this finish are threads woven into a pattern that create a white-on-white or ivory-on-ivory appearance. Often woven in a floral pattern, this fabric finish doesn't need any additional beading or lace.

Dotted Swiss

Small circles of flocked fabric over a background of netting typify this lace, which is often used on necklines or layered over skirts.

Duchess (Duchesse) Satin

Also referred to as silk-faced satin, this finish weighs less than traditional silk finishes and is usually less expensive. Most Duchess satins are a blend of silk and rayon woven into a satin finish.

Dupioni (doo-pee-AH-nee)

Similar to shantung but with thicker, coarser fibers woven into a taffeta-like fabric, dupioni has shown up quite frequently in recent bridesmaids designs.

Eyelet

This lace is usually made of cotton, which has perforated holes embroidered around the edges.

Fabric finish

It's easy to confuse fabrics with fabric finishes. The finish is what the cloth feels and looks like after it's woven. Most bridal fabrics (both natural and man-made) can be woven into the wide variety of finishes described below.

Faille (rhymes with "pail")

Faille is a ribbed fabric finish with structure and body. This finish is also seen in bridesmaids styles today. Most faille finishes are woven from silk, cotton, rayon or polyester fabrics.

Guipure (gwi-PURE)

This lace has a seen a resurgence in recent years -- it seems to be the hip lace today. Guipure features a large series of motifs connected by a few threads. Common guipure patterns may be roses, daisies or geometric designs. The result is often a retro '70s look.

Linen

Made from flax fibers, this fabric was first used for clothing by the ancient Egyptians. Linen is often combined with cotton or other fabrics; by itself it wrinkles badly. As a result, you're more likely to see linen as a fabric in suits and other informal bridal dresses.

Man-made fabrics

Nylon, acetate and polyester are those affordable man-made wonders that became unavoidable in '70s fashion. In the bridal world, manufacturers could weave these fabrics into shiny or glossy finishes, giving a special look at a lower price. Most affordably priced gowns (under £300) are made of man-made fabrics. While most brides don't think 'Hey, I want a polyester wedding dress,' most popular bridal fabric finishes such as satin and taffeta are made of just that.

Organdy

A crisp, transparent fabric finish made from cotton.

Rayon

Invented during World War II when silk was rationed for use in parachutes, rayon is made from plant fibers. An affordable fabric, rayon often shows up in blends of various bridal fabrics.

Organza

Similar to chiffon but heavier and with more body.

Peau de soie (po-day-swa), "skin of silk"

A heavy, smooth satin with very fine ribbing. This finish is actually somewhat dull in sheen compared with traditional silk finishes.

Ribbon

A random pattern of ribbon that is sewn over a net background.

Satin

A tightly woven effect that creates a fabric with a beautiful sheen on one side. Typically made in man-made fabrics such as polyester, satin is probably the most common bridal-gown fabric finish. While satin is most often associated with a high-gloss look, it is also available in a matte finish with a toned-down glow.

Schiffli (SHIF-lee)

A lightweight lace with an all-over embroidered design on a net background.

Shantung

Originally known as wild (or natural) silk, this finish has a rougher, nubby appearance -- but not as course as dupioni. Once associated exclusively with silk fabrics, shantung is now seen as a finish for man-made fabrics as well.

Silk

This is the premier wedding fabric for softness, luster and beauty. Silk is made from silkworm cocoons. France became the most famous producer of finished silk fabric, hence the use of so many French names such as dupioni and peau de soie for silk finishes.

Until recently, silk has been an expensive fabric, and silk bridal gowns have been equally pricey. Most used to cost more than $1,000. In the last five years, however, more affordable silk fabrics (and silk blends) have prompted those prices to drop considerably. Today, some designers are churning out all-silk gowns for just $600.

China still makes 70 percent to 85 percent of the world's silk, but Thailand is also known for the quality of its silk. The designer Wallentin boasts that it uses only 100 percent Thai silk in its gown collections.

Taffeta

This crisp finish is often woven from man-made fabrics. A close second to satin, taffeta finishes are not only common in bridal gowns but bridesmaid dresses, too. In the latter, you might find taffeta fabrics with woven moir patterns.

Tulle (pronounced "tool")

This mesh-like fabric is most often woven from synthetic fibers. A recent fad saw several designers adding tulle skirts to their gown designs. Varying weaves can increase or decrease the weight of this finish.

Velvet

Most folks are familiar with this finish, which has a thick nap. Once associated with silks, velvets can be a finish on cotton or rayon blends, as well. A variation of this finish, crushed velvet, is made with a high and low nap to give a shimmering effect.

Venise (ven-EES)

This type of lace is a needlepoint-type design. An example connects small flowers with irregularly placed threads. By Denise and Alan Fields

Back to the home page